Adriano Goldschmied and Giovanni Petrin on ‘Innovative Entrepreneur’ Luigi Martelli’s Legacy

Luigi Martelli, the founder of finishing firm Gruppo Martelli, died on Jan. 4 at the age of 84.

Specializing in washing, dyeing and finishing, Gruppo Martelli worked with brands like G-Star, Nudie Jeans, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. Luigi was an early adopter of sustainable technologies such as laser and ozone finishing solutions from Jeanologia and Tonello. In 2016, Martelli was acquired by Elleti Group, and the Martelli team’s collection of vintage garments are part of the museum archive opened and operated by Elleti, according to the Spin Off.

Here, Luigi’s friends and frequent collaborators “Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied and Giovanni Petrin, who worked at Martelli for around two decades, remember him in their own words.

Adriano Goldschmied

The first time I met Luigi was in his small laundry in Bologna 50 years ago, where he started dyeing in black the military uniform after the war. He opened to me a new world, and since then we had been very close to each other, working in the innovation of the business but even more importantly, becoming an amazing friend.

His contribution to the finishing industry is unique; he invented a new industry. He was obsessed about bringing innovation with no limits. He was able to introduce the new technologies and use them, making finishing a kind of art. His innovations are endless, from the stonewash, to the TENCEL™ finishing in the ‘90s, making whiskers early ‘80s. He was the first to use enzymes, first to use laser and ozone, but also first to understand and open the way to sustainable practices. He was the first to understand the value of communication and marketing, decades before the Internet. He was the one elevating the industry, creating amazing product presentations introducing the passion of the vintage.

Everybody today working in the industry owes something to Luigi even if they don’t know about it. After all the innovations and progresses, he was teaching us the value of teamwork and “working together.” He had an incredible humanity, treating well and respecting people working for him. I am extremely proud and blessed to work with him for so many years and shape together our industry. 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by @adrianogold

Giovanni Petrin

For Luigi Martelli, people with their intelligence and passion are the true treasure of the world. 

I remember that in Barcelona at the textile suppliers fair connected to Bread & Butter, our Martelli Lavorazione Tessili Group presented and gave to those who showed up at our stand the book “I Love Finishing,” which was the history of treatments and finishes. 

Luigi Martelli asked for a small table, a chair and the boxes containing the book. The reason? He gave the book to all customers, friends, acquaintances and visitors with a personal dedication made at the time. In these sad days, many people who received the book posted the image of the book and the dedication received on various social networks. A small thought that makes those who received it happy but shows the “Greatness and Humanity” of Luigi Martelli.

Luigi has always been a visionary, brilliant and innovative entrepreneur. Already in the ‘60s and ‘70s, he was called the “Wizard of Bologna.” In the early hours of the morning, customers brought tons of garments to be dyed, and in the afternoon they went to collect the garments already dyed. Luigi had already understood that service and speed for ready-to-wear were the most important thing. He then continued with innovative dyeing techniques—pigment dyes, tie dye, batik—which were revolutionary for those times. His vision was realized by being able to give the customer the whole range of finishes, from piece dyeing to garment dyeing of cotton, wool and leather, to finishing with treatments on jeans and to be able to serve all customers in Italy. The Martelli group had four companies in Italy and four companies located in Romania, Turkey, Morocco and Tunisia.

I believe that the legacy that Luigi leaves in the textile sector is in making it clear that without courage, passion and innovation, it is not possible to achieve certain results, but all this must be accompanied by the professional growth of managers and collaborators. Luigi with his great humanity and intelligence made each of us feel fulfilled and happy. He gave us independence and always encouraged us even when we made mistakes or in difficult market moments. His great ability to make us appear “protagonists” when the real engine, inspiration was him with his human strength and humility.